Me and byron are for our 3 month euro-burl fest! Neither of us are in fighting shape but we figure you can't get better training than a month in font ehy!?
The semi-plan is font, south france for some routeing then over to swizzy. We will see what happens. Holiday psyched :)
Susies MOT'd up and pretty much fully packed, Lets Go!
Wednesday, 6 April 2011
Thursday, 17 March 2011
Getting back to it
These past weeks have been goooood! Lots of training last week, to the point of KO'ing about half 9 each night, and a lot of rock this week. I'm feeling the fitness slowly but surely building back up... just in time really as me and byron are heading off in the next few weeks!
Checked out the clifftop boulders and rowtor rocks with byron and gav on saturday, we all loved the crags and did a good range of problems, kudos to the b-man and g-man for doing blood falls (7b) pretty quick.
On the sunday i checked out a crag in cwm idwal, ogwen, with tommy. Weather was gorgeous but we were climbing in the bitter shade of the hills. We did a lot of problems up to 7a+ish with tom smashing the punk... a sweet, dynamic 7c up in't hills!
Tom on the punk, 7c
Monday i met up with dom and eddy at the roaches, dom had already done piece of mind (e6 6b) at about half 8 that morning! I got there to find them attempting barriers in time (e6 6b) and got a few snaps.
Eddy on barriers
Dom and i then headed east to rowtor and gardoms. I did the yogurt hypnotist in a smattering of attempts, first hard-ish thing since my massive lay off, psyched. Dom proved his grit prowess by doing this, blood falls and the truly desperate bus stop mantel (7a+). We then shot to gardoms so i could try suavito, an amazing arete that goes at 7b+ or old skool e5. I should have done it, 4 split tips being my excuse. Keen to return!
Dom on the yogurt hypnotist, 7b
Yesterday i was all prepped for a plastic session at stockport but byrons pantymyn contact informed us all was dry so we shot there for an evening session. It was banging, perfect temps and a chilled atmosphere. We repeated stuff up to 7b, byron was looking good on the be ruthless sitter (7c+) and i got very close to repeating the stand up (7c)
Good times!
Checked out the clifftop boulders and rowtor rocks with byron and gav on saturday, we all loved the crags and did a good range of problems, kudos to the b-man and g-man for doing blood falls (7b) pretty quick.
On the sunday i checked out a crag in cwm idwal, ogwen, with tommy. Weather was gorgeous but we were climbing in the bitter shade of the hills. We did a lot of problems up to 7a+ish with tom smashing the punk... a sweet, dynamic 7c up in't hills!
Tom on the punk, 7c
Monday i met up with dom and eddy at the roaches, dom had already done piece of mind (e6 6b) at about half 8 that morning! I got there to find them attempting barriers in time (e6 6b) and got a few snaps.
Eddy on barriers
Dom and i then headed east to rowtor and gardoms. I did the yogurt hypnotist in a smattering of attempts, first hard-ish thing since my massive lay off, psyched. Dom proved his grit prowess by doing this, blood falls and the truly desperate bus stop mantel (7a+). We then shot to gardoms so i could try suavito, an amazing arete that goes at 7b+ or old skool e5. I should have done it, 4 split tips being my excuse. Keen to return!
Dom on the yogurt hypnotist, 7b
Yesterday i was all prepped for a plastic session at stockport but byrons pantymyn contact informed us all was dry so we shot there for an evening session. It was banging, perfect temps and a chilled atmosphere. We repeated stuff up to 7b, byron was looking good on the be ruthless sitter (7c+) and i got very close to repeating the stand up (7c)
Good times!
Sunday, 20 February 2011
Soul Searching
It has been a while since my last post, mostly because since then i have done knaff all! Totally lost it for climbing for a few months, what a knobber.
Font was a bit of a right of.... we got one and half days of climbing in a week of torrential snow. Phil did 2 of the big 4 in day though, a sterling effort.
What we lacked in climbing we made up for in drinking with 90 bottles of beer, 2 bottles of wine, a bottle of gin and a bottle of rum consumed in the week between the two of us. BeerLAD.
I have been back on "it" for a about a week now and feel so much better for it... mostly training but yesterday i had a cracking outing to thorn crag, somewhere i have never been. Due to car issues i ended up going on my own... i saw no one all day, just me and the rocks! (blah blah, meaningful shit). It wasn't in the best nick, being shrouded in cloud, lots of snow and damp rock but i salvaged a good day. Defiantly keen to head back to tick some cool things on dry rock!
The exciting news is that byron and i are heading round europe for 3 month boulder/route fest, very psyched, leaving at the beginning of april so i should be back to some sort of form by then to :)
I also have a 3 week holiday to canada with the fam and an additional two week stay over =SQUAMISH!!!! Im in the process of D.I.Ying a travel fingerboard for the three weeks in tourist mode. Sad?
DIY!
A trip to the rocklands is also on the cards, octoberish time.
All in all pretty exciting.
Bob and byron have earned themselves some nice little ticks, byron did the thug mental traverse at pantymwyn (7c+) and bob smashed rock attrocity for his first (7c)... although training has rendered his elbows useless leaving ARC training his only climbing related activity. Dom (currently in font) has been in good form to, ticking his way through a lot of grit classics.
Arc/bridge training
Font was a bit of a right of.... we got one and half days of climbing in a week of torrential snow. Phil did 2 of the big 4 in day though, a sterling effort.
What we lacked in climbing we made up for in drinking with 90 bottles of beer, 2 bottles of wine, a bottle of gin and a bottle of rum consumed in the week between the two of us. BeerLAD.
I have been back on "it" for a about a week now and feel so much better for it... mostly training but yesterday i had a cracking outing to thorn crag, somewhere i have never been. Due to car issues i ended up going on my own... i saw no one all day, just me and the rocks! (blah blah, meaningful shit). It wasn't in the best nick, being shrouded in cloud, lots of snow and damp rock but i salvaged a good day. Defiantly keen to head back to tick some cool things on dry rock!
The exciting news is that byron and i are heading round europe for 3 month boulder/route fest, very psyched, leaving at the beginning of april so i should be back to some sort of form by then to :)
I also have a 3 week holiday to canada with the fam and an additional two week stay over =SQUAMISH!!!! Im in the process of D.I.Ying a travel fingerboard for the three weeks in tourist mode. Sad?
DIY!
A trip to the rocklands is also on the cards, octoberish time.
All in all pretty exciting.
Bob and byron have earned themselves some nice little ticks, byron did the thug mental traverse at pantymwyn (7c+) and bob smashed rock attrocity for his first (7c)... although training has rendered his elbows useless leaving ARC training his only climbing related activity. Dom (currently in font) has been in good form to, ticking his way through a lot of grit classics.
Arc/bridge training
Wednesday, 24 November 2010
Not font fit
Myself and philbo are off to font on saturday for a week. We are living it large with a gite and a double bed (to share) this time. Byron and bob have been out there for a month or so already and a friend sam (schofield) is heading out on thursday... these guys will all overlap with us slightly so we should have a full on team for the first few days!
I have done very little in the way of climbing the past week or so, psyche issues and waayyyy too much booze and chocolate. My "get fit quick campaign" for this week is underway though so fingers crossed for me not being entirley shit when we get there :) Phil is in devastating form and will probably do everything in the forest!
Big up to dom who is currently out there (the powers that be wouldn't let us go together) ticking his way through some classics and sleeping in caves... apparently.
Sunday, 14 November 2010
Font Psyche
Myself and dom had a banging day in wales on tuesday... the plan was to get to the pass/ogwen but weather changed the plan. After a bit of a mooch around trying to warm up on the roadside block we slacked it and attempted to find the PAC MAN boulders. Attempting being the operative word... we ended up spending about an hour trekking around the moors which resulted in very wet feet and no climbing!
We headed to porth ysgo as dom had never been and had an amazing afternoon. Weather and conditions were amazing and we ran around like headless chickens ticking most of the classics. I failed on popcorn party again, desperate! Dom dispatched this pretty quick and we both did the truth sitter, a top notch problem!
Yesterday i headed to pantymwyn early doors to get the be ruthless sitter done. I did it but it was a bit of a battle. I managed to drop the slopey jug twice before eventually doing the deed. Pretty chuffed! I also did the gasoline sitter, a really good quality problem.
Myself and phil have booked our gite for font and the excitement is high! :D
We headed to porth ysgo as dom had never been and had an amazing afternoon. Weather and conditions were amazing and we ran around like headless chickens ticking most of the classics. I failed on popcorn party again, desperate! Dom dispatched this pretty quick and we both did the truth sitter, a top notch problem!
Yesterday i headed to pantymwyn early doors to get the be ruthless sitter done. I did it but it was a bit of a battle. I managed to drop the slopey jug twice before eventually doing the deed. Pretty chuffed! I also did the gasoline sitter, a really good quality problem.
Myself and phil have booked our gite for font and the excitement is high! :D
Sunday, 7 November 2010
a day in the hills
Myself and Gav headed to north wales yesterday (partly so i could get a pad...... i got a mondo, it just fits in!) for some action. I was pretty keen to go and try jerry's problem at the sheep pen but it was drenched. We stayed up at the sheep pen where i did the pinch (classic) and a few other things. Its an amazing spot and, save for one passing shower, we had mint conditions! Psyched to return and give jerry's a go.
We also checked out the caseg boulders near Beddgelert. After an interesting and very cold river crossing i preceded to get spanked :) I did the caseg groove, prob one of the best of its grade around.
Was very nice to be in the mountains again! Fingers crossed for more good weather this week.
Gav working the pinch, 7a+
Nature n shit
We also checked out the caseg boulders near Beddgelert. After an interesting and very cold river crossing i preceded to get spanked :) I did the caseg groove, prob one of the best of its grade around.
Was very nice to be in the mountains again! Fingers crossed for more good weather this week.
Gav working the pinch, 7a+
Nature n shit
Wednesday, 3 November 2010
Back to the 'mwyn
Blasted back here on monday and ticked be ruthless... it went pretty easily on my second attempt. Feels nice to do something hard-ish after not climbing for so long. I then jumped straight on the sitter (7c+) and almost did it first go but failed getting my left heel high enough for the last hard move. I had a few more close attempts but soon got powered out.
I tried gasoline (7b+), one of the newer problems there. I did the stand (7a+) after a few shots but failed on the full link, didn't feel too hard just a bit too fatigued.
I repeated thug mentality and mental extension so I am very keen to try and get the full link, thug mental, which goes at a hard 7c+ so I've read....
I'm hoping this place doesn't get too affected by the shitty rain we've been having otherwise it may well be out of action soon until next year :/
Shopping list for this week:
One big bouldering mat that will fit in the fiesta. Mondo? hmmmm
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